Costumes

1865 Elliptical Cage Crinoline
from Truly Victorian
Pattern TV103

Having made the decision to go to Dickens on the Strand in Galveston, I needed something to wear. The decision--to hoop or to bustle. And then, I came across some pictures in a fashion book and discovered the Elliptical Hoop which is somewhat a combination of the two. Because I never do anything the easy way, my choice was made. I ordered an "elliptical hoop" from Alter Years. After many weeks of waiting, it finally arrived. Much to my dismay, it did not resemble what I was expecting. Taking a round hoop and tying the bottom bones together may make an oval, but it doesn't make the right shape for the late 1860's hoops. So, I ordered from Truly Victorian their pattern for an elliptical cage crinoline and set to work on an engineering feat. Cannibalizing the hoop that I had purchased and boning from some of my renaissance hoops, this project was probably a little more complicated than it would have been had I just got the materials and started completely from scratch.

Also, the pattern is 36” from waist to hem. I am 36” from waist to floor. Consequently, I needed to raise it just a bit so that my skirts will cover it and I won’t trip while dancing (which is hard enough not to do when I’m wearing pants at our lessons). I raised bone numbers 2 through 8 a quarter of an inch. Initially I raised them ¾ of an inch, but when I tried on the initial fitting, it was to my knees so I had to go back and adjust. That’s three hours of my life that I won’t get back.

The other problem with cannibalizing the previous hoop is that the bottom circumference of the skirt wasn’t actually big enough. So, I cut out a 15” rectangle and inserted it in the front to widen it. I also had to add a bone to the bag hem. For that, I discovered that hem tape works fabulously and will remember that if I ever set out to do something this stupid again.

I now have a crinoline cage to wear under the TV247 skirt that I am going to make. My husband was very impressed, but being the perfectionist that I am, there are some things about it that could be better. However, it will do. I will have to learn how to sit in it as I cannot sit like a do a regular 4 bone hoop. But my butt does look appropriate huge and it swishes mightily as I dance about. Feels like my bottom keeps going even after the rest of me has stopped.

I set the camera on auto so that it took pictures every five minutes. The only time I didn’t really have this set was the 8 or 9 hours that I hand stitched the boning casings to the ribbons. There’s got to be a better way than that. Although I did enjoy the five movies that I got to watch while working on, I am not happy with the sore fingers and aching back.